Potty Training

Recently I have had a lot of people asking me if this particular species of parrot can be potty trained or if that kind of parrot can be potty trained, and the answer in most cases, if you have the patience is yes.  Now, I am not saying that all species of parrots will pick up on the idea, or that it will be easy to teach your parrot potty training.  When thinking about parrots, you basically have to consider them as little children.  Each one has his/her own unique personality and their own intelligence.  They each learn at their own pace.  I think of all of my birds as toddlers, they are always inquisitive and willing to pick up on new things that will get Mom and Dad's attention and praise. I try to train my birds just as I raised my children, with lots of attention and praise when they did something correctly that we were trying to teach them.

That being said, I will share with you the steps that I used to potty train my Jenday Conure, Mischief.

I started him when he was young and it was a fairly easy process.  I can not really tell you how long it would take with an older bird, but I do know that with any age bird, it requires a lot of patience, praise and rewards.

As babies, you can figure that they are going to potty on the average of every 20 minutes (give or take).  They will also normally potty when you first take them out of the cage.  So, be prepared for this.  Have your paper or whatever you are going to use handy for the bird to poop on.  We use a
wicker basket with a handle, then I attached a ladder going up to the handle.  About every 20 minutes we would set him on the basket.  Decide ahead of time on the key words that you want to use when you are telling him/her to potty.  With Mischief we say, "Be a good boy."  Then when he uses the potty we praise him and give him a treat.  Eventually, we were able to phase out a treat everytime, but you always praise them when they follow the rules or do what you want. (Just like children.)  Now, he just climbs the ladder and goes to potty on his own without being told to. 

But, like I said, you have to remember to be patient.  All birds are not going to learn at the same pace.  It will take some longer than it does others.  The basics of this can be used to teach your bird other things as well.  For instance, pick out your key words that you want to use to indicate to your bird to do a trick, then stick with it.  When the bird gets the idea and starts doing it, always praise it, then give it a treat that it likes.  Be sure to pick out treats that are healthy though, we don't want to get fat unhealthy birds in the process. 

Suppertime With the Flock

Well, the baby Sun Conures have all found new homes.  We are still hand-feeding one, but it has a deposit on it.  I believe that all three are going to have good forever homes and that is very important to us.  We like to meet the families that our birds are going to and try to ensure that they know how to care for their new babies.  After we spend so much of our love and time with a baby, I like to try to make sure that it is going to the right home.  I know that you can't ever guarantee that, but most times after you sit down and talk to people for awhile, you can tell if they are serious, or if the bird is just going to be a passing fad. 

We always try to emphasize that a parrot is a long-term commitment, you can't just buy it this week and then forget about it next week.  Birds of all kinds are very social creatures.  They need interaction with their "flock" in order to live happy and healthy lives.  Once you add a bird to your home, you become their "flock".  They need daily time out of their cage with the family, being part of the family.  Playing with you on your computer, watching TV with the family or even eating supper right along with the family.  Many parrots eat supper with their families.  My Jenday Conure Mischief eats with us every night.  (Just be careful what they get to eat!)   There are many recipes online for Birdie Bread and articles to explain how to sprout.  Do a search and check some of them out.

We wean all of our babies onto ABBA feed and Zupreem FruitBlend.  This is what we believe is the best staple nutrition.  But there are many other foods that are good for birds as well.  They do not eat the same exact food day in and day out in the wild.  I am going to give you some ideas on some of the good things to feed your parrot first.  (In addition to it's staple diet.)  Then, we will go into the No-Nos.


Birds need a lot of proteins to maintain their maximum good health.  These proteins can be found in such foods as:  eggs and other animal proteins, garbanzo beans, lentils, soy beans, pinto beans, red kidney beans, split peas, and white kidney beans.  Other sources of proteins include chicken and fish. Yogurt and cottage cheese (in moderation) and meats can be fed as sources of protein as well.
Nuts are high in fat and proteins.  These are perhaps the best "snack food" that we can give our friends.  Mischief loves his cashews, and Miss Kitty and Lil' Bit love pistachios.

Birds also love fruits and vegetables.  However, do not let this comprise a large part of their diet.  Broccoli, carrots, celery, cooked potatoes, corn, beans, peas, sweet potatoes, squash, banana, plums, melon, apricots, papaya, pineapple, grapes, mango and peaches are all good to feed to your bird.  You can feed greens, such as kale, dandelion, endive, spinach, collards and other leafy greens of deep color.  However, feed greens in moderation and check the stool for diarrhea.


There are many foods that your parrot friend can eat with you, be sure to check on the Internet or ask your avian vet if they are safe first.


Now the No-Nos:

Most parrot people already know that birds CAN'T have avocado and chocolate.  Avocado can cause cardiac distress and eventual heart failure in pet birds.  Chocolate poisoning first affects the bird’s digestive system, causing vomiting and diarrhea. As the condition progresses, the bird’s central nervous system is affected, causing seizures and eventually death.

The core and seeds of the apple have trace amounts of cyanide in them.  I have even heard issues on TV about the trace amounts of cyanide in apple juice.  Make sure that you carefully wash and core any apple that you give your bird.

Excessive consumption of onions causes vomiting, diarrhea, and a host of other digestive problems. It has been found that prolonged exposure can lead to a blood condition called hemolytic anemia, which is followed by respiratory distress and eventual death.  Never give your bird onions.

Alcohol depresses the organ systems of birds and can be fatal. Make sure that your bird stays safe by securing him in his cage whenever alcohol is served in your home.

Caffeinated drinks, such as sodas, coffee and tea, can be extremely hazardous to your bird. Caffeine causes cardiac malfunction in birds, and is associated with increased heartbeat, arrhythmia, hyperactivity, and cardiac arrest. Instead, share a nice fruit drink with your bird. It is better for you and him.

Mushrooms are a type of fungus, and have been known to cause digestive upset in companion birds. Caps and stems of some varieties can cause liver failure. All sources say to stay away from mushrooms.

Tomatoes, like potatoes and other nightshades, have a tasty fruit that is fine when used as a treat for your bird. The stems, vines and leaves, however, are highly toxic to your pet. Make sure that any time you offer your bird a tomato treat it has been properly cleaned and sliced, with the green parts removed, so that your bird will avoid exposure to any toxins.

Too much salt can lead to a wide variety of health problems in birds. Including excessive thirst, dehydration, kidney dysfunction and death. Be sure to limit the amount of salty food that you give your bird. (Example – Junk Food)

This is by no means a complete list. If you are unsure, read the label, seek more information from the maker, or consult your Avian Vet. When in doubt, do not use!

 In a life-and-death situation when every minute counts for an animal, you can call the ASPCA National Animal Poison Control Center for 24-hour emergency information at 888-4ANI-HELP (888-426-4435). Website: National Animal Poisoning Control Center  http://www.napcc.aspca.org/

First Flight

With all these new babies, we are having a lot of first flights around here!  So, we really have to be careful.  We always clip our babies after they take their first good flight.  It has to be a good flight though, not a bumbly one. This allows the baby to build up both confidence and coordination.  This is an ageless debate and will probably continue as long as people keep birds for companions, to clip or not to clip.

Ideally, an outdoor flight or habitat (where the weather permits) is the perfect place to house your bird or birds.  In this way, you would be able to allow your birds to remain fully flighted.  This can get costly though.  First you must determine the size you need, which for the larger parrots, can end up being quite large.  Then, determine the size wire, the predator protection, insect barrier and definately do not forget a safe double entrance so that your birds can not accidently fly out.

Another option is to bird proof a room in your home so that your bird can fly safely.

Many breeders and other sources believe that birds should be left fully flighted.  The attitude in Europe is that it is abusive and inhumane to clip a parrot.  It is believed that an unclipped parrot is happier and healthier than one that has been clipped to remove it's flight capabilities.

The aim of feather clipping is not to remove the bird's ability to fly, flying is an important exercise that all birds should be allowed to do for both physical and mental health.  The goal of feather clipping is to merely limit the bird's ability to reach full height or speed when it does fly.   If the bird is clipped correctly, it will not fall like a stone, but will actually glide and control it's flight enabling it to land safely.  This allows the owner to have increased control.  Clipping should be carried out by an experienced person who understands how to clip correctly. 

All birds need to learn to fly, maneuver, balance and land whether you intend to clip them or not.  This is why we also wait until they take their first good flight around the house.  They need to develope these flying skills and build their flight muscles.

Feather clipping is carried out for many safety reasons; windows, doors, cookers, toilets and many more thing around the house present possible danger to birds kept as companions.  However, the danger is always there whether the bird is clipped or not.  Every bird owner should be aware of the dangers and hazards around their home.  Clipping the wing feathers will reduce the speed at which a bird can fly as well as the distance, so it is easier  for the owner to supervise it. 

The biggest fear of all bird owners is that their bird may escape.  This is possible whether the bird is clipped or not.  Each and every room that your bird has access to should be checked for openings to the outside.  You should also make sure that you inform all household members when your bird is out.  When I am hand-feeding the babies all doors and windows are closed and I always make sure that I tell Robert and David.  We have had one baby fly out the front door.  We were taking a baby Cockatiel out to clip it and the front door accidently got opened.  It took off out of my hands and after circling the house it flew out.  Even to this day I regret that I did not make sure the door was securely closed.

With just a slight gust even a clipped bird can gain height and distance, a correct clip will only limit a bird indoors where there is no wind.  It is the wind that gives the bird the extra lift that it needs to get up there. 

Closing doors to kitchens or toilets while your bird is out will reduce the risk of it landing on hot cooking survices, in boiling water or in toilets.  Always remember these risks are there whether your bird is clipped or not.  If doors can not be closed then toilets seats should be down, cookers cooled (and covered), fish tanks covered, windows and doors closed, and any other immediate dangers removed before your bird is allowed out.



With a clipped or flighted bird the same risks are there both behaviorly and with dangers around the home.  It is up to us  as responsible bird owners to keep our birds safe and happy using the methods that we feel work the best and by taking the necessary precautions to remove those dangers that may be present around our homes.

Supervision is always needed when a bird is out of it's cage. In many ways they are like toddlers and young children, if there is something to get into, they will find it. There is always something around that could possibly hurt your bird in some way. Keeping an eye on your bird while it is at play is your best way of ensuring that you can remove the bird from any potentally harmful situation before it can happen.

Unsure of what type bird you want?

Spring has definately sprung and we have a lot of new babies right now and a lot of people inquiring about them. I am finding that many are not sure what type of bird they want and several have never even had birds before. Taking a bird into your heart and your home is a great joy. But it also carries with it a lot of responsibility. We highly recommend that you do research online, through your local library and to talk to breeders before you decide to purchase a bird. Even if you do not decide to call on us please find a breeder or someone who is knowledgeable about the parrot of your choice. Make sure that this is the right bird for you and your family. Too often, people will buy a bird and later discover that it is just too much for them, or not the type of bird they expected, then the bird gets passed on. When this happens too many times, the bird can become traumatized, which leads to negative behaviors such as self-mutilation and screaming.

The biggest thing to keep in mind is that a bird is a long term commitment, you can't just buy it and forget it. Birds are very social creatures and they can only thrive if they are provided an enviroment that supplies them with interaction with their "flock". When you add a bird to your home, you become that "flock".

Secondly, is the cost. Can you afford a bird? Aside from the initial investment (cost of the bird, cages, etc.), you have the monthly costs of food. There is a big debate between breeders between seed and pelleted diets. We recommend a combination of both. We serve ABBA feeds to all of our birds, as well as, fresh fruits and vegetables. All of our babies are weaned onto ABBA and Zupreem Fruit Blend. {Our Mischeif even has his own plate and eats supper with us!} You also have to consider the cost of toys. Bird toys are made to be destroyed. Birds will spend many hours destroying toys, so they need to be replenished on a regular basis. And they need to be toys that will keep the bird's attention. They have to be rotated on a regular basis so that the bird does not become bored and begin to exhibit negative behaviors.

Then you also have the cost of routine Vet care. Even if your bird is never sick, which hopefully it is not, then you do need routine check-ups.

Next, do you have time for a bird? Birds require a good deal of time. In many ways they are like children, they need quality time with their "parents" so that they can grow and learn. They are not just a new, hot item in the house. They are now a part of the family. You have to be willing to spend this time with them. You are now their "flock".

You also have to consider things like the noise and the mess. Are you willing to put up with these? It seems like the larger the bird, the bigger the mess, and almost always, the more noise. I had a Quaker once that would throw his food and small toys out, then when I would go to retrieve them he would laugh. (It sounded like a laugh, anyway.)

I do not say this to discourage you. Too many people either do not know or do not really consider these things when they decide to purchase a bird. Then these birds become unwanted and end up in rescues with screaming or plucking problems to name a few. We recommend that you seriously consider the type of bird you are getting BEFORE you purchase. That way, you and the bird will be happier for it.

Here are pictures of some of the wonderful babies that we have in the nursery at the moment.

We have got a lot of new babies right now.  Lovebirds, Cockatiels, Green-Cheek Conures and Sun Conures.  Lots to love right now.

Check them out on our website here:  http://www.dandrtreasuresaviary.com/The-Nursery.html

Don't forget Mother's Day coming up.  Birds make great companions for Moms that have children in school.  Buy a bird for Mom for Mother's Day and get

Hello Everybody! It's Been Awhile

It has been several months, but we have had many new babies.  They have really kept me busy.  I raise them up and teach them all the good manners they need in life.  How to step up and give kisses, etc.  Then they go to their new homes.  It is sad in a way, because I miss them so much.  I spend so much of my time with them (just like kids growing up), and then they move out on their own.  I wish that I could keep them all here with me.  But it is still a happy time to see the love in their new family's eyes when they come to get them.  I had one baby Sun Conure that went to a family whose daughter is special ( I do not like to use the word disability!).  They drove a good distance just to pick out which baby they wanted and put a deposit on it.  We talked back and forth as the baby grew and I sent pictures.  The young lady could not believe that the baby was really going to be her's.  When her parents picked up Gabby (That was what they named the baby),  I could just see thee love and joy.  We receive emails occassionally from Gabby's new Mom and Dad and they just make my heart so happy.   I get a lot of emails like that, some include pictures.  I like to think of them as my extended family.  Boy, do I have a big family!   I put the pictures in a photo album, both online and in a hardback version here in my living room.

We have had alot of other birds as well, lovebirds, cockatiels and parrotlets.  I had bunches of lovebirds flying around my head while I was feeding.  They always stay right near me.  Now the Tiels are a different story, we had one land in the tub this morning!  (It's time for a wing clipping!)   We have three beautiful babies right now, a lutino, a pied and a pearl.  They are all spoken for I believe. 

We also have more baby Sun Conures in the nest.  Lil' Bit and Miss Kitty have three babies and Scarlett O'Hara and Rhett Butler have started hatching again.  Plus more lovies are hatching.  I am fixing to have my hands full again.

Of course, we always have David's beautiful Doves.  At least I don't have to hand-feed them!

Well, that's all for now.  More next time!
The Birdlady

Housing for your new friend

These are just a few tips that we have learned through the years.  Hopefully you will keep these things in mind when you get your new family member.


Cage Living

Provide your new bird with the largest cage that you can. I know in these times that many people do not have a lot of space or money, but your bird needs the largest cage that you can afford. They need to be able to at least stretch their wings out and flap them without hitting anything in the cage.  The larger the cage the more choices you can provide in the way of perches and toys.  They should also be able to make short flights.  Horizontal bars on the sides of the cage are very important for birds that like to climb, such as Parakeets, Cockatiels, Conures and many of the playful parrots. Bar spacing needs to be small enough that the birds cannot get it's head through them.  Metal bars are great for those that like to chew.  It is really nice if the cage is easy to clean.  Most cages now are made with slide out trays and easily removable bottom grates.  The cage should be placed in a draft free area that is well lit, but not in direct sunlight.  To make your new friend feel more comfortable, place their cage against a wall, corners are perfect.  This makes them feel more secure from possible predators.  Round cages do not give this kind of secure feeling, because there is no corner to hide in.

Aviary Living

Aviaries are beneficial in providing large areas for birds, often with the intent of breeding.  They can be either indoors or outdoors.  Some birds are noisy and can be a nuisance to close neighbors.  So, if your birds are loud, you may want to keep them in an indoor aviary or in a remote area.
Indoor Aviaries give you the ability to control temperature, lighting, noise and humidity.  An indoor aviary is often a room in a home devoted to birds.  The windows are covered with wire and the door often has a wired porch with two doors to pass through.  These are to keep your birds from flying out.  Some indoor aviaries are simply a bird room with extra large cages.  Doing it this way, the doors and windows don't need to be screened in.
Outdoor Aviaries can provide your birds with a natural environment and are designed in a wide variety of styles.  Because the birds are exposed to the weather, they must have indoor sheltering, possibly heated or cooled, if conditions get extreme.  Outdoor aviaries always need a shaded area and wind breaks.  Trees or large branches can fit in nicely to create a comfortable home, but must be made of non-toxic woods. (I will get into that in a separate blog post.) 


Accessories
Bowls, Perches & Toys

Bowls are needed for food and treats, water, grit and crushed shells.  Small birds, such as parakeets and finch, can use plastic bowls.  Ceramic or stainless steel are generally needed for medium or large parrots.  These bigger birds will often chew up plastic bowls, or even pick them up and dump or toss the bowl and contents.  Built in bowl holders are often a part of the cage and may be designed to keep the bird from removing the bowl.  Other bowls are attached by hooks, bowls or clips, and may mount inside or outside the cage, depending on the design. 
Perches not only provide standing places for birds, but also give them and opportunity to exercise their beaks and keep them trim.  Perch size and shape can vary depending on the species of bird, but should fit their feet.  A 1" perch is comfortable for most medium parrots and 1/2" perch suits smaller birds.  Round and oval perches are often used.  We do not recommend the plastic perches, they are simply not good for the birds feet.  Variety in both size and shape is important for exercise and can help delay or even stop the onset of arthritis. Natural branches are great for providing this variety.  Concrete perches make nice additional perches for parrots (do not use on finch & canaries) to help them keep both their nails and beak trim. (I will address more about perches in a separate posting.)
Toys for birds are designed in lots of combinations of woods, leathers, ropes, chains, bells and even acrylics.  Toys such as swings and ladders are designed for chewing and climbing, while stainless steel mirrors are good for viewing and comfort.  The wide range of non-toxic colors, fun textures, shapes and sizes, sounds (and even smells) that you'll find in bird toys will keep both you and your bird interested in checking out new ones.  This is a great way to combat boredom and provide exercise.  Birds are highly intelligent creatures.  As such, they need a varied environment to stimulate their mind.  Keep this in mind when creating or selecting toys for your bird.  Pick toys they will keep them occupied while you are occupied elsewhere.  They need to learn the art of play early on, and then have plenty to stimulate them as they grow.


I hope that at least some of this helps all of you bird lovers, whether you be new friends or old.  Check back later for more postings.

Have a Great Day!